H22 Auto to Manual Timing Belt Tensioner Conversion

[phatdoughnut]

DIY H22 AUTO>H23 MANUAL TENSIONER CONV.

#10/ 13404-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER, BALANCER BELT (NIPPON SEIKO) Old h22 one can be used with an washer shimmed in between. $54.38
#18/ 14510-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER, TIMING BELT (NIPPON SEIKO) $52.85
#27/ 90016-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER $6.59
#30/ 90140-P14-A00 - WASHER, PLAIN (11MM) $2.48
#26/ 90015-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER SPRING $5.55
#25/ 90014-P14-A00 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER BASE $3.00
#28/ 14516-PT2-000 - SPRING, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER $3.17
#13/ 13415-P0A-000 - BRACKET, BALANCER BELT ADJUSTER $5.98 Optional, h22 one can be reused.
#20/ 14521-P14-A00 - PLATE, ADJUSTER $7.91 Optional-timing belt will be really tight already so no need for it.

Red items are those that need to be ordered.
H23 timing belt image.

H22 timing belt image.
Green items are those that can be reused.

What it looks like before you get started.

Balance shaft tensioner removed, along with the balance belt adjuster bracket. And balance shaft belt being removed.

Removing timing belt auto tensioner.

All necessary parts removed, including water pump.

Balance shaft belt adjuster

Timing belt Adjuster

Timing belt adjuster base bolt

Timing belt adjuster bolt.

11MM washer

Timing belt adjuster spring bolt

Timing belt adjuster spring

Timing belt adjuster bolt with 11mm washer under it, with timing belt adjuster base bolt. Being screwed in.

Timing belt adjuster spring bolt being screwed in.

Timing belt adjuster and balance shaft belt adjuster in place with balance belt adjuster bracket tightened down.
Note there are no belts because I quickly put it together to show everyone how they go.
Timing belt must be put on before balance belt adjuster. Last thing to do is put on the springs on the balance belt adjuster bracket and timing belt adjuster.

All together with timing belt and balance shaft belt.
Turn motor counter clock wise 3-4 times to make sure everything functions properly and is tightened down.

Plate Adjuster was not used, because the timing belt will be very tight.

Note: might want to also pick up the balance shaft seal retainer; it was a service bulletin for most accord and preludes. If you don?t the seal will walk out and leak oil. This you will have to call the Honda dealer and or call the online parts store, you won?t be able to just click and order.

LEFT OVER PARTS

By Juan Nares/phatdoughnut
www.Accordinglydone.com
I will not be held responsible for the liability of your motor; this was done for a learning experience and to teach others. If your motor blows up, its not my fault.

[Chris]

Wanna convert this to a vBulletin post and attach the images, Juan?

[mayfieldfour]

What is the benefit to doing this? Is it more reliable or what?

[phatdoughnut]

^ once you are pushing a certain amount of horsepower the auto tensioners tend to give out and there goes your timing belt and since we have interfearance(sp?) engines valves can get bent..

sure chris.

[adrenaline_rush]

Quote:

Originally Posted by phatdoughnut:

^ once you are pushing a certain amount of horsepower the auto tensioners tend to give out and there goes your timing belt and since we have interfearance(sp?) engines valves can get bent..

sure chris.

back from the dead.

what is the certain amount of horsepower ?

[Mulepick]

I know that I'm new to this forum and all, but I think it is reckless to call this optional:

#20/ 14521-P14-A00 - PLATE, ADJUSTER $7.91 Optional-timing belt will be really tight already so no need for it.

The original used belt should be replaced and it is all but impossible to get a new belt onto this new configuration. Even if you can muscle it on, many complain of a whining noise and short belt life (= short head life on an interference engine like this).

I say pony up the money for the plate so that you can secure the tensioner when you get it set. Have room to set it by getting a new belt with an extra tooth (156 vs 155). Even with tightening the belt a little more than the spring would naturally do, you've still got half of your adjusting distance to play with later.

[9t3Akord]

You do not secure the tensioner on the plate,adjuster. It is used only to lock the tensioner on the untensioned position while removing the timing belt.

[Confuc1ous]

So is this a good way to go, or no go?

[phatdoughnut]

So far so good for me, havent had any bad results.

[PSPEC]

Edit: In your diagram #28 should be #19

[PSPEC]

Just did this conversion on an F20B

When using an H22a timing belt, its damn near impossible to get the belt on. I would say that you have to have the timing belt slider to get the belt on easily.

F20B belts have 156 teeth, H22a Have 155. Its a lot easier if you can find an F20B belt. This belt will fit H22a and goes on much easier.

[skoog]

PSPEC, www.autodynamics-honda.com is one of the only places i can find new oem F20B parts (no timing belt), do you know of any other sites that may have one?

[PSPEC]

I bought an H22a timing belt. I could not get the damn thing on the F20b. So for now I am using the old F20b belt.

I think it would go on with the timing belt slider tool because the H22a belt is just a little bit too short with the manual timing belt tensioner conversion on there.

I want the tool but its like 70 bucks. The F20b belt came off and on no problem. That extra tooth makes a big difference.

I don't know where to get an F20b belt.

[tommygun89hb]

I got all the parts this is the first thing im going to do thanks for the write up